How Parmesan is made
Every wheel of real Parmigiano Reggiano is tapped with a tiny hammer to listen for cracks inside.
- stations
- 8
- things upstream
- 4
- raw sources
- 3
- steps from the ground
- 2
The short version
Raw cow's milk goes into copper-lined vats with a whey starter and calf rennet. The curd is cut to rice-sized grains, cooked hot, and lifted out in muslin to be split into two wheels. After weeks in brine, the wheels age on wooden shelves for at least a year before inspectors test each one.
-
Mix last night with this morning
Whole milk from the morning milking is blended with naturally skimmed milk from the evening before. The result is a part-skim mixture, and it is not pasteurized.
Goes in -
Warm it in copper vats
The milk is pumped into copper-lined vats, which heat evenly and add copper ions to the mix. Starter whey carrying heat-loving bacteria goes in, and the milk is brought up to a gentle warmth.
33 to 35 °C
-
Set and shatter the curd
Calf rennet turns the milk to a gel in a few minutes. Machines then break the gel into pieces about the size of rice grains.
10 to 12 minutes to set
-
Cook the grains hot
The cheesemaker raises the temperature with great care, then lets the grains settle to the bottom of the vat as a single mass.
55 °C, settle 45 to 60 minutes
-
Lift out two wheels
The settled curd is gathered in muslin, cut in two and dropped into molds. Each vat holds 1,100 liters of milk and yields two wheels, each starting at about 45 kilograms of curd. A belt pressed around each wheel stamps in the dairy number and date.
-
Float in salt brine
Wheels sit in tanks of brine saturated almost to the limit with salt. Salt is the only seasoning, and the wheels soak it up slowly.
20 to 25 days
Goes in -
Age on wooden shelves
Wheels move to aging rooms with shelves stacked 24 high. Every seven days each wheel and its shelf are cleaned and the wheel is turned.
at least 12 months
-
Tap every wheel
At 12 months a trained grader taps each wheel with a small hammer and listens for hidden cracks and voids. The sound sorts wheels into three grades, and only the top grade gets the official brand.
Worth repeating
- Parmigiano Reggiano uses about 18 percent of all the milk produced in Italy.
- Some Italian banks accept wheels of Parmesan as collateral for a loan.
- Between November 2013 and January 2015 a gang stole 2,039 wheels from warehouses in northern and central Italy.
- In the European Union only the Italian cheese may legally be called Parmesan.
Back to the ground
Follow every input upstream and parmesan starts as these 3 raw sources.
Open the whole family tree
Keep walking
Sources
Cite this page: "How Parmesan is made." Assembly Line, 2026-11-03. https://assemblyline.org/make/parmesan